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Door Strike Plates: 15 Types and Related Hardware

Thursday, October 22nd, 2026

Author: Kate Allen - Rustica Founder and CEO

The latch on the moving door enters the strike opening in the jamb. Simplified illustration; use the lock manufacturer’s preparation template.

A strike plate is a key part of the doorframe that often goes unnoticed. This small piece of hardware ensures your door operates correctly, so it's important to install the right strike plate for your door.

15 Strike Plate Types and Related Hardware

Standard Strike Plate
Deadbolt Strike Plate
Security Strike Plate
T-Strike Plate
Round Corner Strike Plate
Square Corner Strike Plate
Full Lip Strike Plate
Adjustable Strike Plate
Ball Catch Strike Plate
Drive-in Strike and Latch Compatibility
Mortise Strike Plate
Latch Guard (Related Hardware)
Pocket Door Strike Plate
Sliding Door Strike Plate
Storm Door Strike Plate

These names describe different features: lock function, plate shape, corner shape or adjustment. One strike can fit more than one description. A latch guard is related hardware rather than a receiving strike. Match the manufacturer’s part and template instead of choosing by the name alone.

There are many types of strike plates available, but how do you choose the right one for your door? To make that decision easier, we'll explain each strike plate's purpose, design, and unique features. But before we dive into the options, let's first cover what a strike plate is and why it's such an important part of your door.

What is a Strike Plate?

A strike plate is a hardware component found on the latch side of the door frame. It is a metal piece installed in the door jamb that can have one or more holes. It is designed to be flush with the door jamb so that it doesn’t interfere with the door’s ability to open and close.

If you’re not familiar with the door jamb or its location, check out our article that explains the different parts of a door. This will help you understand door anatomy, which can be useful to know if you ever have any door repair projects.

The hole in the strike plate aligns perfectly with the door knob’s latch. When the door closes, the latch slides into the strike plate, creating the “click” sound you hear as the latch locks into place.

The strike plate keeps the door latched into place. Even if you push on the door, it will remain closed because the door’s latch is firmly within the strike plate hole. This, of course, is essential for a properly functioning door.

Some strike plates (such as a security strike plate) have two holes to accommodate a locking mechanism. With these types of strike plates, there’s a hole for the door knob latch as well as the deadbolt latch or locking mechanism.

A misaligned or damaged strike plate can prevent the door from latching properly. If you’re trying to figure out how to fix a door that won’t latch, one of the first things you’ll want to investigate is the strike plate.

Strike Plate Types: Uses and Fit

Now that we’ve covered what a strike plate is and what it’s used for, let’s explore the various strike plate options available for you. The one you choose will largely depend on the type of door you have (interior or exterior), how wide the door is, and if there’s a locking mechanism on your door.

1. Standard Strike Plate

A standard strike plate has a basic rectangle design with one latch hole and two screw holes. It has a slightly curved edge on one side allowing the door latch to smoothly slide into the strike plate. This curved edge reduces friction when the door latch hits the strike plate.

Full-lip and T-strike designs have different outlines and may need different jamb preparation. A similar-looking strike is not automatically an interchangeable replacement. Standard strike plates can feature either rounded or square edges, each with its own benefits, which are explained below.

Standard strike plates are ideal for residential interior doors. They are designed to fit standard interior door latches, with the strike plate hole sized to match the shape and dimensions of these latches.

If you need to replace an interior door strike plate, this type is a great option. It's easy to install and available in various metal finishes, like satin nickel or brass, to match your existing door hardware.

2. Deadbolt Strike Plate

If your door has a deadbolt latch, a deadbolt strike plate is required in order for the door to lock properly. A deadbolt strike plate is separate from the door latch strike plate. They are typically larger and stronger than standard strike plates.

Unlike most door latch strike plates, the deadbolt strike plate does not have a curved lip on one side. This is because the deadbolt is turned into the strike plate hole once the door is already closed.

Deadbolt strike plates come in a range of options, varying in security and installation difficulty. Heavy-duty strike plates, for example, are reinforced to help protect against forced entry. These typically have four screw holes instead of two and may require longer screws for proper installation.

Some deadbolt strike plates come as a box unit, and may require a reinforced door frame. You’ll want to consider professional installation for these types of deadbolt strike plates.

Deadbolt strike plates are best for exterior residential doors that have a standard deadbolt lock. If your door has a more complex locking mechanism (such as a mortise lock), you’ll need to buy specific strike plate to match it.

3. Security Strike Plate

A security strike plate is built to resist forced entry. Made from heavy-duty reinforced steel, these strike plates are available in different designs to suit your needs.

One of the most common security strike plate designs is a large strike plate that combines the standard door latch strike plate and the deadbolt strike plate. With the deadbolt and door latch fitting into the same strike plate, it’s much harder to break the door down with force.

Another type of security strike plate features two long metal studs that extend into the wall studs beyond the door frame. This design is specifically for a deadbolt latch and does not combine the strike holes for the door latch and deadbolt.

A basic security strike plate design is a deadbolt strike plate with four screw holes instead of two.

For a reinforced strike, use the fasteners, reinforcement plate and frame preparation specified for the lock and door assembly. Screw length and anchoring depend on the frame construction; adding a larger plate alone does not establish a security or fire rating.

Security strike plates are ideal for exterior doors and for those with high-security needs. They are best for security or safety rated doors.

4. T-Strike Plate

The T-strike plate is commonly used in both residential homes and commercial buildings. While it is sometimes called a standard strike plate, its appearance can vary.

This strike plate is shaped like a sideways capital T, with the extended curved lip going over the edge of the door jamb. This curved lip prevents friction when the door latch brushes against it.

The shape of this strike plate requires the door frame to be prepared to fit it. While many newer homes are built with T-strike plates in mind, older homes may have a strike plate mortise (the recessed area in the door frame) that doesn't match the T-strike plate.

In this instance, you’ll want a standard or full-lip strike plate. Otherwise, you’ll need to chisel out a T-strike plate mortise in your door frame.

Choose a T-strike when the lock and jamb preparation call for that outline. The shape alone does not determine door thickness compatibility or provide an adjustment range.

5. Round Corner Strike Plate

A round corner strike plate is a standard or full lip strike plate with rounded edges rather than square ones. Match the corner radius to the existing recess or the manufacturer’s preparation template. Corner shape affects fit as well as appearance.

A rounded strike can fit a routed recess when its dimensions, corner radius and screw spacing match. Check those measurements before assuming it fits a pre-prepared frame.

Either corner style should be seated as specified, without a loose or protruding edge.

6. Square Corner Strike Plate

The square corner strike plate is the alternative to the round corner version and is also a type of standard or full lip strike plate. This type of strike plate is more common in older homes and offers a traditional look. If you live in an older house, your door frames may be prepped for this type of strike plate, making it a suitable option for your interior doors.

As the name suggests, this strike plate has sharp, square edges. Because of its design, they require precise installation into the door jamb. If your door isn’t already prepped for this type of strike plate, then the strike plate mortise needs to be chiseled perfectly to fit.

7. Full Lip Strike Plate

The full lip strike plate, a type of standard strike plate, is one of the most common options. It features a curved edge that wraps around the door jamb, extending slightly past the latch opening on one side.

This allows the door latch to slide into the strike plate without friction and provides additional support for the door latch. The full lip strike plate matches standard door latches and can be used for interior or exterior doors.

The extended lip strike plate is a variation of the full lip strike plate. It features a longer lip that extends further from the main plate, making it wider than standard or full lip strike plates. This design can help the latch clear projecting trim or a deeper jamb. Choose the lip length from the required clearance and the hardware template, rather than door thickness alone.

8. Adjustable Strike Plate

If the latch misses the strike, first inspect the door jamb and hinges. A door that rubs or has uneven gaps may need the cause diagnosed using this guide to fixing a sticking door before the strike is moved.

If you live in an older home and need to upgrade your strike plates, consider the adjustable strike plate. These metal strike plates are designed to allow for minor adjustments to align with the latch. So, if your doors don’t latch properly or fit loosely in the strike plate hole, this type of strike plate is a great solution to consider.

Adjustable strike plates are useful for doors that swell or shift over time. An adjustable strike can help with small alignment changes within the adjustment range specified for the lock.

More strike plate types and related hardware

9. Ball Catch Strike Plate

A ball-catch strike receives a spring-loaded ball rather than a conventional latch. Match it to the catch; these are commonly used on non-locking interior doors.

10. Drive-in Strike and Latch Compatibility

“Drive-in” can refer to a latch collar on the moving door, but some manufacturers also list circular drive-in strikes for the jamb. These are different components. Identify the exact lock and strike part before replacing either one.

11. Mortise Strike Plate

A mortise-lock strike must match the lock case and its functions. Verify the manufacturer’s template and bolt openings before ordering.

12. Latch Guard

A latch guard covers the gap near the latch. It is a protective accessory, not a substitute for the receiving strike plate.

13. Pocket Door Strike Plate

A pocket-door strike receives the hook or bolt of a compatible sliding-door lock. Match both parts and the jamb preparation.

14. Sliding Door Strike Plate

Sliding-door keepers vary by hardware system. The hook, bolt, or latch must engage the keeper specified for that model.

15. Storm Door Strike Plate

A storm-door strike works with the corresponding latch and frame. Check closer operation and door alignment as well as the strike.

Replacement strike plate checklist
Check	Why it matters
Lock manufacturer and model	The receiving opening must suit the latch or bolt
Plate dimensions and screw spacing	A similar-looking plate may not fit the existing preparation
Corner shape and recess depth	The plate needs to sit correctly in the jamb
Lip projection and trim clearance	The latch must clear the casing as the door closes
Frame condition	A plate alone cannot repair a split or loose jamb

How to Choose and Replace a Door Strike Plate

Start with the lock manufacturer and model. Keep the old plate until you have compared the replacement with the existing preparation and the installation template.

Check the door fit. If you must lift or push the door to latch it, inspect hinge movement, uneven gaps and weatherstripping before changing the strike.
Measure the existing plate. Record height, width, thickness, screw-hole center spacing and corner radius. Check the receiving opening, recess depth and how far the lip needs to project past the trim.
Confirm the matching part. Compare the measurements and template with the lock maker’s specified strike. A latch strike, deadbolt strike and pocket-door keeper serve different mechanisms.
Install to the supplied instructions. Use the specified fasteners and reinforcement. If the replacement requires a different cutout or the frame is damaged, resolve that before fitting the plate.
Test the engagement. With a way to reopen the door, close it gently and check that the latch holds and the bolt extends and retracts smoothly without lifting or forcing the door.

For a latch that misses the opening, follow our door-not-latching troubleshooting guide. For fire-rated, commercial or access-controlled doors, have the appropriate hardware professional verify any change to the assembly.

Door Strike Plate Questions

Why does my door hit the strike plate instead of latching?

Door sag, hinge movement, a shifted frame, or an incompatible strike can cause misalignment. Inspect the door fit first, then follow the lock manufacturer’s adjustment instructions. Avoid filing the opening before identifying the cause.

Is a strike plate the same as a latch faceplate?

No. The strike is on the receiving jamb. The latch faceplate is on the edge of the moving door. A drive-in latch collar and a circular drive-in jamb strike are different parts. A latch guard is an accessory that protects the gap.

Is a striker plate the same as a strike plate?

In residential door hardware, “striker plate” commonly refers to the strike plate on the receiving jamb. Confirm the actual part and dimensions when ordering a replacement.

Are door strike plates universal?

No. Plates vary in size, corner shape, screw spacing, lip projection and receiving opening. Use the part specified for the lock and compare it with the existing frame preparation.

Which part is the door latch plate?

The phrase can mean either the strike on the frame or the latch faceplate on the moving door. If the plate receives the latch when the door closes, it is the strike. Identify its location before ordering.

See how to fix a door that will not latch and Schlage’s latch-alignment guidance.

Hardware references: Schlage strike templates, latch faceplate guidance and Kwikset extended-lip strike guidance. Always follow the instructions for your specific hardware.

Updated October 22, 2026 · Clarified strike types, replacement fit and hardware terminology.

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