FAQ

Rustica Hardware is a functional art creator whose goal is to bring soul to your living space! Rustica Hardware was started by a husband and wife, Paul and Kate Allen. They were high school sweethearts, are parents of 4 and are artistic entrepreneurs. They started in grandma's garage and grew into a large, state of the art manufacturing facility where they get to work with the most talented artists who build your doors and hardware.

Rustica Hardware was born and raised at the base of the beautiful Wasatch Mountains in Art City, Springville Utah. We have been here for over 15 years. We are about 1 hour south of Salt Lake City Utah.

Our normal hours of operation are Monday - Thursday 6:30 am - 8:00 pm MST and until 6:00 pm on Fridays. Saturdays are 7:00 am - 3:30 pm. Our website is open 24/7 ( of course:) )

Yes! We have a long list of items in stock ready to ship. This includes both barn doors and barn door hardware. Here are links to those items: Ready To Ship Hardware, Ready To Ship Doors

Here is a link to our inspiring sliding barn doors: Shop Barn Doors

Here is a link to our beautiful barn door hardware: Shop Barn Door Hardware

Here is the link to our custom project order form: Custom Projects

Yes! Sign up for our newsletter and engage with us through social media for exciting savings including, a 5% discount code. also have an interior designer, contractor and trade discount offered through this link: Rustica Trade Program

Your order is made from raw materials that we manufacture from scratch. Standard barn door hardware systems take approximately 2-5 business days to make. Standard barn doors take approximately 2-3 weeks. After that these orders typically ship ground via FedEx, USPS or UPS ground. Plan on 2-5 days for shipping.

We are here to help throughout the day. Please give one of our sales reps a call at 1-800-891-8312, and they can direct you through the whole process with suggestions, ideas, and personal assistance through your whole order process.

It’s important to consider overlap with your door and the opening. We consider a standard of 2” overlap on each side of the door from the door opening width.

The first distinction in picking guides is choosing between, “Standard,” and “U-channel.” Most of the doors we produce are made with a slot on the bottom to accommodate for a standard guide. The next consideration to make is if you are okay to mount to the floor, or if you would prefer to mount into the baseboard, or wall. We also offer options with wheels. The wall mount double roller will require that you drill into the floor and wall, so please keep that in mind.

We cut the slot to ¾” in depth and ¼” width.

We can definitely send you door plugs for the sides of your door. They are not automatically sent and need to be requested. Please call in and talk to a service rep to receive those with your order. *We do not provide door plugs for the hex holes on the back face of the door. *Plugs will not be finished to match your door. A Touch Up kit will be provided.

For a flush opening take your door width times it by 2 and subtract one side of overlay. example say you had a 3’0” wide opening and a 3’4" wide door, 40"x 2 = 80 - 2" = 78" or 6’6" of track. This way you have sufficient coverage when the door is closed but when you open the door it will come flush to the opening for a clean finished look. For a cased opening you will take the door width and times it by 2. This way when the door is closed the trim/casing is hidden but when you open the door you will expose all the beautiful trim work for a more traditional look.

We supply black and zinc bolts that are matched with our different finishes, or provided specifically by request. We do not have an option of bolts to match with each finish selection.

For a flush opening we typically recommend a 2" overlay on each side to act as a light, sound, and privacy barrier. This will make your door a total of 4" wider than the opening and 2" taller than the opening. You can also make the door just an inch taller if you are tight on clearance. Keep in mind that you will lift your door a 1/2" off the floor to allow it to roll. For a cased opening it is most popular and cosmetically appealing to make the door to cover all the casing. So you will measure from outside of trim to trim for the width and from the floor to the top of the casing for the height. Our doors are built on the inch so round up to the nearest inch if the exact measurement is unavailable.

Different hardware styles require different clearances, If your ever in question please call in. Most of our Flat Track systems with a solid 3" wheel require 7.5" from the top of door (not the top of opening) to the ceiling to allow it to mount and roll without obstructions. The 4.5" spoked wheels on the Flat Track require 10" of clearance. Flat Track systems with exposed wheel hanger styles (where the hanger doesn't roll over the top) require 6.5" from the Top of Door to ceiling. Our mini system (shutters and cabinets) Requires 5.5" clearance from Top of Door to ceiling. Our J Track system that requires 5" clearance from Top of Door to Ceiling and the Low Clearance system only requires 3" of clearance.

Once again there are different weight ratings according to the style you've selected. Please call in if your ever in question. Face Mounted Hanger: 300lbs. Top Mounted Hangers: 200lbs. Box Track: 200lbs. J Track: 150lbs. Mini Hardware: 150lbs.

We advise doubling up on the hangers on any doors over 4’0” wide to help disperse the weight and prevent the door from warping on bowing in on itself over time.

Mounting your track to a header not only gives a more finished look but adds additional support to helping disperse the weight of the system and prevents crushing of the drywall on large or heavy door applications.

If you are mounting straight into studs we suggest ordering “No Holes” and drilling the track holes on site to mount to your studs. We suggest ordering Pre-drilled track holes if you already have blocking behind your wall, or are using an exterior header.

The formula for your spacer size is Door Thickness + Trim/ Baseboard Thickness - 1/4" adjustable spacers sizes offered are 1.25"-2.5" anything Larger will need to be mounted to a header to cancel out the baseboard and trim or upgrade to our heavy duty spacers. Our heavy duty spacers are available in sizes 2.75"-3.75".

We have samples for all of our finishes here: Finish Samples

Starting at 2-¾” extension from the back of your track and the wall you will need to purchase “heavy duty spacers,” or they will be included in your kit instead of the “standard adjustable spacers.” Heavy Duty Spacers are painted according to your hardware finish and function just as well as the standard design.

We currently don’t have an option that supports our “spoked” hanger designs, but we are hard at work on a design that will make these hangers compatible!

You have a few different options. Metal wheels can demonstrate the same texture and finish as your hardware. Nylon wheels only come in black, but they roll quieter than the metal. There is a hybrid design termed as a “slyder.” The design has a metal exterior and a nylon interior to provide the benefits of both options. Other options would include different metals like brass, or wood wheels.

The standard stop is our most common option but is primarily intended with vertical edge hangers. The round stop is best used with the rounded edge hangers, and the adjustable stop is used to affix the stop at any point on the track, rather than being restricted to where your lag bolts fix to studs.

The DIY kit fits slats up to ¾” thick where they fit into the vertical support rails.

If you have a door size that is not available online, you may call our sales team at 800.891.8312 option 1 and they will be able to assist you!

Depending on the modifications, the price can change. Give our sales team a call at 800.891.8312 option 1 to discuss your options, and they’ll be able to get a quote for you.

If replacing the whole Entry, it is best to measure from the inside of doorway, jamb to jamb, or wall to wall.

The rough opening refers to the framed in opening of a doorway where the studs are still exposed.

A finished opening is when an opening is closed in with sheetrock or wood for a “finished” look.

The “jamb” or door jamb is the frame built around the door that holds the door in place with the hinges and door hardware.

Typically, a Front Door or “Entry” is built on a 2x6 wall. This will require at least a 6-5/8” sized jamb to allow for the 2x6, sheetrock and OSB or sheeting on the outside. Sometimes under the sheetrock an additional sheet of plywood or OSB is attached. This will require another 1/2” or going to a 7-¼” Jamb or Frame.

A Door Slab refers to just the door itself. A Prehung door is a door hung on the Jamb/Frame with Hinges.

Of the many methods out there, we find it best to open the door and stand inside the doorway with your back to the hinges, or “Butt to Hinge”, and see which way the door is swung. If the door is to your right it is Right Hand Swing, if it is your left, it is Left Hand Swing.

Bore refers to a hole for normal Door Knob Lockset. Often the question is whether or not the door is being bored for just a Knob, or Knob and a Deadbolt.

The Backset refers to how far away from the edge of the door the knob is. Typically an Interior door backset is 2-3/8”. An Exterior (1 ¾” thick or thicker) is 2 ¾” Backset.

A Mortised door is a door with a pocket routed or mortised into the edge of the door for a bigger or Mortise Lockset System.

Yes! Door thickness comes into play when looking at the difference between an Interior or Exterior Door. An Exterior Door is typically at least 1 ¾” thick to 2 ¼” depending on size of door. The thicker your door is will make your door more secure and prevent warping when exposed to the outside elements.

Hinges range in color, square or round, size, and whether or not they have bearings in them. Color, and whether they are square or not, is a preference based on matching the color of the door knob and other fixtures in the room. Size is determined by the door size. Typical interior doors (1-3/8” thick) only require a 3-½” hinge. Doors 1-¾” thick require a 4” hinge. Doors 2-¼” thick require at least a 4-½” hinge. Bearings are upgraded to help with the strength and ease of movement for the heavier doors. Our doors come standard with ball bearing hinges.

A hinged door has hinges placed on the edge of the door which are typically on the wall side of a door. This is the most common way. As a door gets bigger and heavier a “Pivot Hinge” can be placed on the bottom and top of a door to alleviate the pressure placed on the edge of the door and the screws used for standard hinges. This is less common, but can be ordered.

Brick mold is a standard “Moulding” placed on the outside of a door that is not required. Standard Brick mold measures 2” wide and 1-¼” thick.

Weather stripping is used on exterior doors as a seal for weather and moisture. It is placed in a groove or “Kerf” cut into the Jamb/Frame for this purpose. The Weather strip can be removed and replaced by pulling it along the face of the jamb.

The threshold is the metal, fiberglass or wood sloped piece at the bottom of a doorway to help keep moisture outside and for the door to seal against. Often times they are adjustable.

The door sweep is typically a rubber or plastic piece attached to the bottom of the door to help seal it to the threshold when the door is closed.

A sidelite is the framed in window next to the door on one or both sides. It is typically there to bring more light into an entryway.

A transom is the framed window set above a door.

Glass type varies on preference and the privacy desired. The only requirement for glass on a door is that it be “tempered” or laminated to prevent shattering when the door is slammed.

Door direction matters on an exterior door. If the door faces West or South, the sun tends to shine on it more. That usually means extra care has to be taken to prevent door warpage and cracking, especially if there is no overhang or awning above the door.

Typically an exterior door swings into a structure, to change it to an out swinging door, there must be a landing as big as the doorway and as deep as the door swings out, in order to pass code. This is to prevent tripping when stepping outside.

To properly seal a door, all six sides must be sealed. That is all four edges and both faces. This prevents moisture from getting inside the door. Sealing should be done within 14 days, preferably within 7 days. Most warranties will not cover the door if it isn’t properly sealed within 14 days.

Shipments that order at long lengths can demonstrate some slight bending. A bow in the track can often not be any problem at all once installed. If sharp bends or kinks have occurred that cannot be fixed, give a call to our customer service line right away to come to a resolution.

Your email may not be correct, or it is possible that we are running late of our estimated timeline. Please keep in mind that because our orders are hand-crafted, we only provide an estimated time frame for their completion. Give our customer service line a call, and one of our associates will meet with production to update you on how things are going along.

We want to help you meet your deadlines, but we do have some limitations in order to provide the craftsmanship that we expect from each of our projects. We can try to work with you on meeting an order by date. The typical cost for expediting our production rates is 20% of the cost of that product. We can discuss options for rushing your ship rate as well. We will do all we can to help you get your order in time for your important deadlines.

You will receive an email notifying you that your order has left our facility and is on its way to your home, or business. This email will provide a tracking number so you can track your shipment.